It is Friday, 5/25/2018 and all is well here. We’ve done a lot since the last update and I just wasn’t able to keep this updated. Sorry. We moved on Wednesday from Nopolo to Puerto Escondido where we joined friends and rented a car for some shoreside sightseeing, laundry, provisioning (can we ever have enough food?) and, of course, shoreside dining. Yesterday we journeyed about 40km outside Loreto to the Mission San Xavier. Very cool little village, very rugged, scenic drive and, of course, the mission itself. Built apx 250 years ago, it was the first Catholic mission in the California’s to sport glass windows. We got Milagro’s bottom cleaned while in PE and in the process learned that the growth was much worse than we’d realized and was really creating a lot of drag. So, on to today. We left PE at first light this morning to make our way North to Isla Los Coronados where we joined other friends, one of which is celebrating a birthday today. At 1035MDT our anchor is set in the NW bay at Coronados at 26 06.673’N, 111 17.043’W in 16′ over sand. The OAT is 86F, the humidity 53%, there is now a N breeze running 10kts and the sea is 78F and flat but with wind ripples. The water visibility is about 15′ which is a bit of an improvement. The WX forecast models cannot agree and, depending on which models are closer to being correct, we may (may) see NW winds increase this afternoon enough to drive us around to the protection of the South side of the island. We will see what develops. We are starting to focus on the best day(s) to make our crossing to San Carlos and think the coming Wednesday or Thursday may serve. We will continue watching closely in the meantime and will either hang here until time to cross or move North a little bit first.
It is Tuesday, May 22, 2018 and everything is good here on the SV Milagro. And, no, we did not fall off the face of the earth. It has been so long since our last update that one could come to that conclusion but it’s not the case. We just haven’t moved from Point Nopolo in all this time – 14 days by my reckoning. Point Nopolo is a nice setting with good beaches, restaurants (yes, more than 1), good cell coverage and decent wifi from the hotel. At least it was decent in the middle of the night when all their guests were asleep. Anyway, we couldn’t think of anyplace better so why move, eh? Today, however, we have joined a group of friends at the Loreto waterfront where we are gonna fool around on shore today. We are set at 26 00.734’N 111 20.182’W in 10′ over sand. Yes, it was a “minus” low tide, the last one for several days so we’ll be in deeper water soon without moving an inch. The OAT is 80F, it’s 80F also in the pool and there is 5kts of breeze from the E. Seas are flat with about 10′ visibility. Our aim is to move tomorrow to join other friends for yet another shoreside adventure. More on that later. Hasta prono.
It is Monday, May 7, 2018 and all is good here on the SV Milagro. We enjoyed 5 days at Puerto Ballandra hanging out with friends. We even used my birthday as an excuse to have a beach party. Our good friends Sherri and Ken, retired master bakers on the SV Cake, even baked a most awesome birthday cake for me. But today was moving day and we have returned once again to the anchorage at Point Nopolo just about 7 miles south of Loreto. Here we have good cell signal and decent wifi from the hotel on the beach. The weather forecast suggests that this unprotected spot should be good for most of the week so we’ll see how that plays out. We’ll likely stay here until either the weather runs us out or some temptation elsewhere draws us away. For now, we are the only boat in the anchorage here and that’s kinda nice. We are at 25 55.480’N 111 20.840’W anchored in 13′ over sand. The OAT is 80F, it’s 75F in the pool, there is a wee breeze from the E running 3 kts. The water still is not very clear, visibility is maybe 6′ or 8′ but it’s millpond flat and glassy. The sunshades are up already and we are settled in. If the pool will only warm a few degrees we can look forward to a bit of swimming. Hasta luego for now, y’all.
It is Wednesday, May 2, 2018 and all is well here. The Wx forecast calls for N winds increasing over the next several days and our anchorage at Nopolo is a poor choice in those conditions, therefore, it is moving day. We managed to make 2 legs of it though as first we moved about 6nm N to the town of Loreto to pick up a few groceries. It is a roadstead anchorage at Loreto which offers no more wind/sea protection than where we’d been so we had no inclination to stay longer than needed. In just a little over 2 1/2 hours we had completed our chores, eaten a nice breakfast ashore and were on our way. Leg 2 was not very far either, but on the way there we got to enjoy some of the weather we’d been expecting. NE winds 15 to 20 kts over 2′ to 3′ close spaced swells topped by 1′ whitecapped wind waves, also from the NE. Kind of a lumpy, wet ride as our target lay in a ENE direction from Loreto. With overcast skies and cool temps we were very much reminded of our days sailing on San Francisco Bay. Of course, in the end, the passage was uneventful and we are now set in Puerto Ballandra on Isla Carmen at 26 01.198’N, 111 09.914’W in 50′ over sand. The OAT is 74 and there is a NNE breeze running at 12kts. The pool is 71. We found 9 other boats already here including 2 whom are friends of ours. We reckon to hang here for a few days and probably through the week end.
Today is Sunday, April 29th, 2018 and all is well here on Milagro. After enjoying the Candeleros anchorage and resort for 3 1/2 days, including 2 decadent days ashore, we have moved about 15nm North to a little anchorage at Point Nopolo. Again, we are in front of a resort which is generously, if not knowingly, sharing it’s internet with us. Unlike Candeleros, there is a small community here comprised of a couple of hundred homes and several restaurants. There’s a sandy beach for landing the dingy and the resort is friendly to cruisers. We’re even welcome at their pool so long as we make restaurant or bar purchases. Pretty reasonable, eh? There is an estuary alongside the resort which winds its way through a golf course making a pretty nice place to kayak, then when the water clarity is better (later in the season) the snorkeling is quite good as well. We will hang here for several days before deciding where/when to head next. Currently we are at 25 55.522’N 111 20.916’W in 14′ over sand/mud. OAT is 80F, the pool is 71F and there is a SE breeze running at 5kts. Sea is flat but water is murky green color w poor visibility.
Today is Wednesday, 25 April,’18, and things are good here on the Milagro. Last evening a bit of red tide moved into the anchorage at Los Gatos which settled the “should we stay or should we go” question for us. It wasn’t a full scale event and it’s not like it smells or that we planned to go swimming but it IS unsightly and that was excuse enough for us. Winds in this area are still light and variable and the seas flat as a fritter but I suppose that beats wild and wooly by any measure so we are fine with that. We ended up gliding right past Agua Verde and landed instead at Bahia de Los Candeleros. This is the bay at the south end of the greater Loreto Bay area and also the location of the very swanky Villa del Palmar resort. Assuming conditions remain benign we will hang here for a couple of days, probably going ashore tomorrow to enjoy the pools and other amenities of the resort. VDP is a time share property and we happen to be owners, or is it members? Whatever, that sometimes gains us a little extra respect, other times, not so much. We’ll soon see how things are this time. In any case, we have cell coverage again so can do normal email as well as voice calls again. The OAT now is 83F, the pool is 72F and the wind continues to howl out of the North at 2 to 3 knts. We’ll have an update for you when next we fold our tent and move along. Hasta luego for now.
It is Tuesday, 24 April, 2018, and all is well here on Milagro. This morning we departed San Evaristo under a wildly colorful sunrise and motored our way North to Pto. Los Gatos. The sea was millpond flat and what breeze there was hovered around 3kts – first from the S then the N then finally the NE. At 1117MDT we set the anchor at Los Gatos at 25 18.128’N 110 56.760’W in 14′ over sand. The water remains flat calm and has warmed to 74F. OAT is 79F and we still have that NE breeze screaming through the anchorage at 3 to 4 knots. On the beach here there is an adventure group camped with their colorful tents and kayaks. These groups are not uncommon in this general area, many are traveling via ocean kayak and some, like we suspect of this group, travel from beach to beach by panga (not enough kayaks on the beach for them all to be traveling that way). Both types have support via pangas carrying food, supplies and some of the camping gear. In fact, we saw a group of ocean kayakers pause briefly at San Evaristo yesterday afternoon on their way to some destination south of there. Yes, the sand beaches here, like beaches amost everywhere, harbor plenty of sand fleas and other biting creatures. It might be fun if your idea of fun is to paddle all day then sleep in the sand at night before doing it all over again the next day. I think we’ll pass. Not sure if we will hang here for a couple of days or move on again tomorrow but we’ll let you know if we relocate.
It is Monday, 23 April 2018 and all is fine here. The weekend at Caleta Partida was indeed fun. At one point we counted 29 boats in the anchorage and many of them joined us on the beach Saturday night. There was a great potluck spread, lots of visiting and, of course, the bonfire. We enjoyed connecting with old friends as well as making a few new ones. Most cleared out during Sunday and by this morning we left only 7 boats in the anchorage. Today we were sent off on our passage by several sea turtles in Caleta Partida (they are almost constantly visible there), along the way observed 2 or 3 whales moving on an opposite course about a quarter mile off our port side and then, on our approach into San Evaristo, we were welcomed by a pod of dophins. It’s nice to see so much sea life. Now we are settled in San Evaristo at 24 54.595’N, 110 42.366’W in 15′ over sand. Water vis is just good enough to see the anchor land on the bottom of the pool which is 73F. Warmer than it has been but not quite warm enough for us to swim voluntarily just yet. OAT is 79F and there is a NW wind running 10 kts. We have cruising friends who have adopted this little fishing village and recently have decided to sell their boat and move ashore here. They’ve arranged for a local family to fix a dinner for the cruisers here tonight – there are 4 boats now. San Evaristo has no formal restaurant – it is a tiny place at the end of 75 miles of bad dirt road from La Paz but Charlotte and Steve (SV Willful Simplicity) have some pull with the locals. It’s nice to have friends in high places, eh? Manana we continue moving north up the San Jose channel.
It is Thursday, 19 April 2018 and all is well here. Today we moved north about 15nm into the anchorage called Caleta Partida on Isla Espiritu Santo. Light SW winds accompanied by 2′, closely spaced, SW seas made broad reach sailing slow and uncomfortable so the passage became a motorboat ride. We are anchored now at 24 31.995’N 110 22.690’W in 20′ over sand. The pool is 70F with about 15′ visibility. OAT is 80F and 44% humid. Wind SW @6kts. The moment we finished anchoring we were greeted by a sea turtle who surfaced right alongside us to check us out. We usually see turtles here but it’s nice to be welcomed in that way. There is a group cruise out coming here tomorrow from La Paz so we will soon be joined by a small fleet. Group activities planned for the weekend include beach bocce ball, pot luck dinner and a bonfire. We might even see a card game break out. We know most of these folks so it’s no accident that we are here for the fun. On Sunday or Monday we aim to continue north to the small fishing village of San Evaristo.
It is 1430MDT on Wednesday, 18April2018. By now this has become a familiar routine. Go some place, like La Paz, stay a long time, finally get going and immediately wonder why you couldn’t have done it sooner. Today, after 4 months and 3 days we finally achieved terminal velocity and escaped the strong gravitational pull of La Paz. Of course, we enjoyed our entire time there and even managed to complete many projects including some pretty big ones. The sailing gods celebrated our escape by providing 12-14 kts of North wind which meant we could sail in the La Paz channel on a beam reach. Within moments of clearing the marina we were making 6.5kts under main and reefed jib on flat water. Sweet. Now, this channel changes courses and our destination was due North once out of the channel so the glory didn’t last quite an hour. Still, it was a very nice way to transition from floating condo back into a sailboat. We are now settled for the night at Caleta Lobos at 24 18.023’N 110 20.130’W in 15′ over sand. The wind remains from the N at 10-14kts while the OAT is 76F. The pool is still a bit chilly at 71F. There is good protection here from the North so the water is flat andour conditions are very comfortable. We aim to move a little further North tomorrow to one of the anchorages on Isla Espiritu Santo then, on Friday, move into Caleta Partida on that same island. Welcome back everyone.